Lightening the Load: Working Animals and Their Advocates in Marrakesh
by Diana Hulet and Thomas Machowicz
Photography by Thomas Machowicz
Love Does That
all day long a little burro labors, sometimes
with heavy loads on her back and sometimes just with worries
about things that bother only burros.
and worries, as we know, can be more exhausting
than physical labor.
once in a while a kind monk comes
to her stable and brings
a pear, but more
than that,
he looks into the burro's eyes and touches her ears
and for a few seconds the burro is free
and even seems to laugh,
because love does
that.
Love frees.
Poem by Meister Eckhart, 13th century German theologian
A man rests his forehead against a horse as they wait for free veterinary care provided by the only non-profit of its kind in Marrakesh, La Société Protectrice des Animaux et de la Nature (SPANA).
Abdelghani and Massoud are deeply bonded in both life and work, spending their days making a living at a nearby farm.
This relationship is one of mutuality and compassion, an example of a best case scenario for a working animal in a growing country like Morocco. They are interdependent, for Massoud is blind and needs Abdelghani to be his eyes, and Massoud is essential for Abdelghani to sustain his livelihood on the farm.
They take care of one another, and having the support of SPANA was a blessing during such unpredictable times as the Covid-19 pandemic.
While work and resources for veterinary care were scarce, Abdelghani brought in his horse to be checked for colic. Massoud was seen, treated, and released back to his companion and caregiver.
The bond between them is astonishing, even in Morocco, where many of these animals are only seen as having instrumental value. Their relationship provides a glimpse into a potential future, as organizations strive to raise awareness about the lives of the donkeys and mules navigating the cobblestoned streets.
Thoughts of Morocco conjure up a feast for the senses - colors, spices, and sounds emanating from vibrant neighborhoods and souks.
Marrakesh, a bustling cultural center of nearly one million people, is a favored destination for international tourists, coming to immerse themselves in its rich and robust culture.
The existence of working animals in Morocco is intricately woven into the daily rhythms of the locals. From morning until late in the night, one hears the clatter of hoofs as horses pull caleches through the busy streets and donkeys carry goods in and out of the souks.
Donkeys, mules and horses have been depended upon for transportation, agriculture and livelihoods since at least as early as the 9th century in the old capital, Medina of Fez.
The working animals live in service to the needs of the people here, and while these relationships are close, the animals are often viewed as workers rather than companion animals.
In a 2009 article in Smithsonian Magazine, journalist Susan Orlean emphasizes the predominant narrative held by Moroccans regarding their donkeys by sharing the words of a citizen:
“One afternoon, I was talking to a man with a donkey in the medina and asked him why he didn't give his donkey a name. He laughed and said, ‘He doesn't need a name. He's a taxi.’”
The animals are considered a necessity for work similar to a piece of equipment or vehicle and indispensable while they are healthy and strong.
Once they reach a certain age or fall ill, they are often traded for younger donkeys at local markets.
Bred for being hardworking, patient and adaptable, the Moroccan donkey is often seen carrying goods, plowing fields or, in unique cases, living as a quiet companion to children and families.
Despite facing unique challenges stemming from their working conditions and the quality of care they receive, the animals here exhibit remarkable resilience.
In moments of adversity, such as the devastating magnitude 6.8 earthquake on September 8th, 2023, their lives became even more precarious. However, amidst tragedy, a profound realization emerged regarding the role donkeys play in the lives of Moroccan people.
During this trying time, they not only carried survivors' belongings but also delivered much-needed relief supplies and aided in the removal of rubble from ravaged areas.
These tenacious donkeys transformed into heroes as they assisted Moroccans in their journey of recovery and reunion with loved ones.
The residents here rely on the animals for their communities and culture to function.
Mules, donkeys and horses are essential for livelihoods.
While these relationships are initially based on the animals' capacity to work, bonds of compassion between owners and animals often develop over time, such as the mutuality and kindness we witness between Abdelghani and his horse Massoud.
Observing the difficulties animals encounter in Morocco and elsewhere might prompt a call for eliminating all forms of animal exploitation. However, attempting to alter infrastructure that depends on working animals could perpetuate colonialism and exacerbate the struggles of animals and humans alike.
The vulnerability of livelihoods tied to tourism is a stark reality for many, which was accentuated during the pandemic when Morocco imposed strict travel restrictions impacting both residents and tourists.
The Helpers: SPANA and Jarjeer Mules
Even in light of these strong cultural influences within a country that has minimal legal protections surrounding animal welfare, organizations such as SPANA and Jarjeer Mules have become essential in educating individuals and communities about how to provide for their donkeys, mules and horses.
The positive impact of having essential resources including veterinary care and sanctuary for aging animals, particularly in times of crises such as the pandemic and recent earthquake, brings a sense of hope for both the hard working animals and people who call Morocco home.
The Society for Protection of Animals Abroad (SPANA) is a French organization founded in 1923 with a mission to transform the welfare of working animals in vulnerable communities. With a strong presence in multiple countries, SPANA’s commitment to the health and wellbeing of animals is an ongoing tribute to its founders, Kate Hosali and her daughter Nina, who upon traveling through the region, saw the conditions that working animals endured, and decided to help protect them.
Free veterinary care is only one aspect of systemic change.
SPANA’s model of Treat, Train, Teach recognizes that a holistic approach is essential for fostering systemic shifts which is articulated on their website:
“Changing a dressing on a wound takes no time at all: changing attitudes and beliefs can take generations. From SPANA’s very earliest days we have worked to create a world where working animals are treated with kindness, respect and understanding.”
While immediate medical support is immensely beneficial to the animal in need, SPANA also provides training for animal owners and veterinary students on the specifics of care for working animals.
The third element of their model centers on educating children about animal welfare, emphasizing the importance of empathy and compassion for all animals, even ones not typically regarded as pets.
On any given day, approximately 1.5 million equines are living their lives as working animals across Morocco.
They are pulling plows on farms, carrying tourists through city streets, and enduring lives of hard labor. For the most part, their struggle goes unnoticed.
In 2022, SPANA treated over 20,000 of these working animals at their veterinary centers and mobile clinics.
The animals’ immediate needs are addressed, and essential infrastructure such as water troughs, along with licensing programs for Marakesh’s carriage horses, are implemented to prioritize the long-term well being of the animals.
What was originally envisioned as vacationing space for tourists became home to over one hundred rescued and rehabilitated donkeys, mules and horses.
Founded by former UK lawyers Susan Machin and her husband Charles Hantom, Jarjeer Mule and Donkey Refuge is a sanctuary for elderly and disabled working animals in Morocco.
It all began with a troubled donkey named Tommy, who was rescued from Marrakesh, yet only found solace in Jenny, his female companion. As one donkey turned to two, Susan and Charles set forth on a completely different trajectory, one that has been challenging and rewarding since the founding of Jarjeer in 2014.
Despite the challenges inherent in sanctuary work and the emotional toll of witnessing overworked and injured mules and horses, Susan and Charles have upheld their commitment to providing the care and comfort that these animals rightfully deserve.
From their website, it's evident that Susan and Charles acknowledge they couldn't accomplish their work alone:
“Of course our Mule and Donkey rescues have been the primary focus of our mission but without local people the task would have been so much more difficult.”
SPANA and Jarjeer have woven themselves into the fabric of the communities they serve, with local residents managing and working at the refuge.
This dedicated involvement not only ensures the well-being of the animals but also offers a sustainable foundation for the livelihoods of Moroccan people.
Creating a Ripple of Change for the Future.
Discussions within the realm of animal advocacy often revolve around whether entities like SPANA and Jarjeer serve as solely temporary fixes for broader, systemic issues. The existing structures are rooted in exploitation and while animals benefit from the care provided by organizations like SPANA and Jarjeer, a preferable scenario involves fostering a reciprocal relationship where humans and animals coexist on equal ground. This includes recognizing their respective challenges while nurturing mutual support.
Owners can seek medical aid from SPANA, while animals find sanctuary at Jarjeer to enjoy their later years in peace and well-being.
Transformation is within reach. Anyone traveling to Morocco can engage in conscientious tourism by choosing other modes of transport instead of horse-drawn carriages. Visitors can also refrain from photographing or engaging with animals being exploited for attention or money.
By traveling mindfully, we contribute to the systemic changes we so desperately want to see.
Along with our individual efforts, and through supporting organizations like SPANA and Jarjeer, we can all begin to see these animals as deserving of compassion and love, even as they work within cultures and communities reliant on their labor. The mules, donkeys, and horses in Morocco withstand conditions which will improve through advocacy and heightened awareness. Witnessing and understanding their lives offers us a first step towards a future where each animal can thrive.